STOVETOP MACARONI AND CHEESE

   -05/28/04 http://www.cooksillustrated.com/article.asp?did=541&bdc=6492

 

 

Serves 4 as a main course or 6 to 8 as a side dish

 

If you’re in a hurry or prefer to sprinkle the dish with crumbled common crackers (saltines aren’t bad either), you can skip the bread crumb step.

 

Toasted Bread Crumbs

1 cup fresh bread crumbs from French or Italian bread

Pinch salt

1 1/2 tablespoons melted unsalted butter

 

Creamy Macaroni and Cheese

2 large eggs

1 can (12 ounces) evaporated milk

1/4 teaspoon hot red pepper sauce

2 teaspoons salt

1/4 teaspoon ground black pepper

1 teaspoon dry mustard, dissolved in 1 teaspoon water

1/2 pound elbow macaroni

4 tablespoons unsalted butter

12 ounces sharp Wisconsin cheddar, American, or Monterey Jack cheese, grated (about 3 cups)

 

1. Heat oven to 350 degrees. Mix bread crumb ingredients together in small baking pan. Bake until golden brown and crisp, 15 to 20 minutes; set aside.

 

2. Meanwhile, mix eggs, 1 cup of the evaporated milk, pepper sauce, 1/2 teaspoon of the salt, pepper, and mustard mixture in small bowl; set aside.

 

3. Meanwhile, heat 2 quarts water to boil in large heavy-bottomed saucepan or Dutch oven. Add 1 1/2 teaspoons of the salt and macaroni; cook until almost tender, but still a little firm to the bite. Drain and return to pan over low heat. Add butter; toss to melt.

 

4. Pour egg mixture over buttered noodles along with three-quarters of the cheese; stir until thoroughly combined and cheese starts to melt. Gradually add remaining milk and cheese, stirring constantly, until mixture is hot and creamy, about 5 minutes. Serve immediately topped with toasted bread crumbs.

 

“BAKED” MACARONI AND CHEESE

 

Developed from the stovetop recipe by Stephen Schmidt, this dish is his answer to those who prefer their macaroni and cheese topped with crumbs and served out of a baking dish. Smooth and creamy like the stovetop version, this one is broiled just long enough to brown the crumb topping. The macaroni and cheese can be made up to eight hours ahead, but it must be reheated over very low heat, adding extra milk to moisten it, if necessary, before pouring into the baking dish.

 

1. Heat 2 tablespoons butter in large skillet over medium heat until foam subsides. Add 1 cup lightly packed soft fresh bread crumbs; cook, tossing to coat with butter, until crumbs just begin to color. Season to taste with salt; set aside.

 

2. Adjust oven rack 6 inches from heating element; heat broiler. Follow recipe for Creamy Macaroni and Cheese, mixing 1/4 cup of the grated cheese in with the bread crumbs.

 

3. Pour cooked macaroni and cheese into 9-inch pan (or another heatproof pan of similar surface area). Spread crumbs evenly over top. Broil until crumb turns deep brown, 1 to 2 minutes. Let stand to set a bit, about 5 minutes, and serve.

 

 

Notes:

In about the time that it takes to prepare a boxed macaroni and cheese dinner, you can make the real McCoy.

 

Problem:

Most homemade versions of macaroni and cheese are time-consuming and uninspired, while boxed versions are fast but taste processed.

 

Goal:

We wanted a "from scratch" macaroni and cheese that was rich, creamy, flavorful, and quick.

 

Solution:

Cook the macaroni to "al dente," drain, then stir in the egg-enriched cheese sauce for 5 minutes, until it thickens and then coats and fills each tube of macaroni with silky, cheesy sauce.